Arborvitae (Thuja) are the workhorses of American landscaping. Walk through any suburban neighborhood and you'll spot them: tight columns of evergreen framing entryways, dense hedges blocking out neighbors, graceful pyramids anchoring foundation beds. The American Nursery and Landscape Association estimates arborvitae are among the top-five best-selling landscape plants in North America — and for good reason.
They're fast-growing, deer-resistant in many varieties, tolerant of clay and wet soil, and available in sizes ranging from 2-foot dwarfs to 50-foot forest giants. But they're also widely misplanted — spaced too close, planted too deep, or put in the wrong site — which is why you see so many brown, patchy arborvitae screens across the country.
This guide covers everything you need to grow them well.
The 6 Most Popular Arborvitae Varieties
There are hundreds of cultivars, but six dominate the retail market. Here's how they compare:
| Variety | Mature Size | Growth Rate | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Emerald Green (Thuja occidentalis 'Smaragd') | 12–14 ft tall, 3–4 ft wide | 6–9 in/year | Tight privacy screens, narrow spaces |
| Green Giant (Thuja standishii × plicata) | 50–60 ft tall, 12–20 ft wide | 3–5 ft/year | Large property screens, windbreaks |
| Nigra (Dark American) (Thuja occidentalis 'Nigra') | 20–30 ft tall, 8–12 ft wide | 12–18 in/year | Traditional pyramidal screens |
| Techny (Mission) (Thuja occidentalis 'Techny') | 15 ft tall, 6–8 ft wide | 12 in/year | Cold climates (zones 2–7), dark green winter color |
| Brandon (Thuja occidentalis 'Brandon') | 12–15 ft tall, 4–5 ft wide | 12 in/year | Prairie climates, wind tolerance |
| Mr. Bowling Ball (Thuja occidentalis 'Bobozam') | 2–3 ft rounded globe | 3–6 in/year | Foundation planting, borders |
The critical distinction: Emerald Green is slow but stays columnar. Green Giant is fast but needs space. If you're planting a privacy screen for a typical suburban yard, Emerald Green is almost always the right choice — despite (or because of) its slower growth.
Arborvitae Spacing: The Most Misunderstood Part
The most common arborvitae mistake is planting too close together. Homeowners want immediate privacy, so they space trees at 2–3 feet. Five years later, the trees are crowding, fighting for resources, and growing poorly.
Correct spacing for a privacy screen:
| Variety | Mature Width | Minimum Spacing | For Tight Screen |
|---|---|---|---|
| Emerald Green | 3–4 ft | 3 ft on center | 2–2.5 ft on center |
| Green Giant | 12–20 ft | 8 ft on center | 5–6 ft on center |
| Nigra | 8–12 ft | 6 ft on center | 4–5 ft on center |
| Techny | 6–8 ft | 5 ft on center | 3–4 ft on center |
For a faster solid screen, you can stagger two rows — offset the back row by half the spacing interval. This lets you space each row wider while still closing the gaps faster. A double staggered row of Emerald Green at 4 ft spacing will look like a solid wall within 3–4 years.
Rule of thumb: For a privacy screen, plant at 60% of mature width for long-term success, or 40% of mature width if you're willing to thin some trees in 5–7 years.
How to Plant Arborvitae: Step-by-Step
Getting the planting right determines everything — drainage, stability, long-term health.
1. Choose the right site
Arborvitae prefer full sun (6+ hours) but tolerate partial shade (minimum 4 hours). They need good drainage — they tolerate clay soil but hate standing water. Green Giant is the most shade-tolerant of the major varieties.
2. Dig the right hole
Dig 2× wider than the root ball but NO deeper than the root ball height. Arborvitae planted too deep is the #1 cause of slow establishment and premature death. The top of the root ball should sit ½–1 inch above the surrounding soil grade — it will settle slightly.
3. Remove burlap and cage
If the tree comes in wire cage and burlap, remove as much as possible without disturbing the root ball. At minimum, pull back burlap from the top third and cut away the top rings of wire cage. Synthetic burlap and plastic cage must be completely removed.
4. Backfill correctly
Use native soil amended with compost if your soil is very poor. Do not add fertilizer into the planting hole — it stimulates top growth before roots establish and stresses the tree. Tamp soil gently as you backfill to eliminate air pockets.
5. Water deeply at planting
Apply 10–15 gallons per inch of trunk diameter at planting. Then water every 5–7 days for the first season (more in heat waves, less during rain). Deep infrequent watering beats light daily watering — roots follow the water deeper.
6. Mulch, don't mound
Apply 3–4 inches of shredded bark mulch in a circle extending to the drip line. Keep mulch 2–3 inches away from the trunk — mulch piled against the trunk holds moisture and causes rot. The "mulch volcano" is the second most common arborvitae killer.
Arborvitae Care: What They Actually Need
Once established (12–24 months), arborvitae are remarkably low-maintenance. Here's the annual care calendar:
Spring (March–May)
- Inspect for winter damage — remove any dead or brown branches
- Apply slow-release granular fertilizer (10-10-10 or dedicated evergreen fertilizer) once per year
- Apply pre-emergent weed control under mulch
- Check soil moisture — spring drought during bud break stresses trees heavily
Summer (June–August)
- Water during extended dry spells — established trees need 1 inch per week
- Monitor for bagworms (caterpillars in cone-shaped bags) — treat with Bt or spinosad in late June before bags become large
- Light shaping can be done, but only in early summer, never in fall
Fall (September–November)
- Anti-desiccant spray on smaller trees in zones 4–5 reduces winter burn from drying winds
- Do NOT prune in fall — it stimulates tender growth that gets winter-killed
- Deeply water in late fall before the ground freezes — this is the most overlooked arborvitae care task
Winter
- Protect narrow columnar types (especially Emerald Green) in zones 4–5 from snow load by loosely wrapping with burlap or zip-tying branches together
- If branches are pressed apart by heavy snow, carefully brush snow off while it's still soft — frozen branches will snap
Why Is My Arborvitae Turning Brown?
Brown arborvitae is one of the most-asked landscaping questions. The cause is almost always one of five things:
1. Winter burn (most common) — Desiccation damage from winter wind and sun when the ground is frozen. Leaves turn brown on the south, west, or windward side. New growth in spring usually fills in. Prevention: anti-desiccant spray + fall watering.
2. Bagworms — Small caterpillars that strip foliage inside cone-shaped bags. Caught early (June), easily controlled with Bt. Late-season, hand-pick bags and destroy them.
3. Root rot from wet soil — Brown from the inside out, not the exterior. Happens when planted in poorly drained areas. Unfortunately, usually fatal.
4. Spider mites — Fine webbing on interior foliage, stippled yellowing that turns brown. Treat with miticide or insecticidal soap in spring.
5. Planted too deep — Slow chronic decline, browning from the base up. Improve drainage and aerate the root zone; severe cases may not recover.
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Arborvitae Landscaping Ideas by Style
Classic Privacy Screen
Plant Emerald Green at 2.5–3 ft on center along a property line. Add a 3-foot-deep planting bed in front with ornamental grasses (Hakonechloa, Blue Oat Grass) and perennials to soften the wall effect. The grasses move in the wind and create a layered, natural look instead of a flat green fence.
Contemporary Foundation Planting
Use Mr. Bowling Ball globes at corners and entry points, with 'Degroot's Spire' columnar arborvitae as architectural exclamation points flanking the garage or front door. Underplant with Japanese forest grass and black mondo grass for contrast.
Windbreak and Wildlife Screen
Mix Nigra and Green Giant in a staggered double row at the back of a rural property. The density creates a true windbreak that reduces heating costs, blocks road noise by 6–10 dB, and provides nesting habitat for songbirds.
Formal Garden Hedge
Trim Emerald Green into a formal hedge — begin shearing when trees reach desired height, trimming 1–2 times per year (June and September). Arborvitae tolerate shearing well and can be maintained at widths as narrow as 18 inches.
Mixed Evergreen Border
Alternate arborvitae with broadleaf evergreens — Cherry Laurel, Skip Laurels, or Holly — to vary texture and create a screen that has more visual interest than a monoculture. This also reduces risk from arborvitae-specific pests.
Arborvitae vs. Leyland Cypress vs. Holly: Which Should You Choose?
| Factor | Arborvitae | Leyland Cypress | Holly |
|---|---|---|---|
| Growth rate | Medium–fast | Very fast | Slow–medium |
| Maintenance | Low | Medium | Low |
| Deer resistance | Moderate | Good | Good |
| Winter hardiness | Zones 3–7 | Zones 6–10 | Zones 5–9 |
| Wet soil tolerance | Good | Poor | Good |
| Longevity | 100+ years | 20–30 years | 50+ years |
| Disease issues | Bagworms, spider mites | Seiridium canker (fatal) | Scale, leaf miners |
Leyland Cypress grows faster but has a known fatal disease problem in the Southeast and typically requires replacement within 25–30 years. For long-term screens, arborvitae or Nellie Stevens Holly win on longevity. For fast results in the South (zones 7+), consider Cryptomeria japonica as a Leyland alternative.
Frequently Asked Questions About Arborvitae
How far apart should I plant arborvitae for privacy?
Plant Emerald Green at 2–3 feet on center for a solid screen within 3–5 years. Green Giant should be spaced 5–6 feet for a screen planting. Wider spacing produces healthier individual trees; closer spacing gives faster privacy.
How fast do arborvitae grow per year?
Green Giant is the fastest at 3–5 feet per year. Emerald Green grows 6–9 inches per year. Nigra grows 12–18 inches per year. All are faster in full sun with consistent moisture.
Do arborvitae come back after turning brown?
It depends on the cause. Winter burn (surface browning) typically grows out of with new spring growth. Bagworm damage — if caught early — recovers partially. Root rot and deep-planting damage are usually fatal. Brown branches from the center of the tree rarely recover.
How big do Emerald Green arborvitae get?
Emerald Green arborvitae typically reach 12–14 feet tall and 3–4 feet wide at maturity — making them ideal for narrow spaces. They grow approximately 6–9 inches per year. In ideal conditions with rich soil and ample water, they can occasionally reach 15+ feet.
Can arborvitae grow in shade?
Arborvitae prefer full sun but tolerate light shade (4–6 hours of direct sun). In deep shade (less than 4 hours), they grow sparsely, lose density, and become more susceptible to disease. Green Giant is the most shade-tolerant major variety.
When is the best time to plant arborvitae?
Early fall (September–October) is ideal in most climates — warm soil promotes root establishment before winter, and cooler air reduces transplant stress. Spring planting (March–May) is the second-best window. Avoid summer planting in heat-prone climates.
How much do arborvitae cost?
At nurseries, 4–5 ft B&B (balled and burlapped) Emerald Green arborvitae typically cost $40–$80 each. Green Giant at 6–8 ft runs $80–$150 each. For a 50-foot privacy screen using Emerald Green at 3 ft spacing, budget $700–$1,400 for plants alone plus $500–$1,500 for planting labor.
Do deer eat arborvitae?
Yes — especially Emerald Green and American varieties (Thuja occidentalis). Deer can devastate arborvitae in winter when other food sources are scarce. Green Giant and Techny have better deer resistance. For high-deer-pressure areas, consider Cryptomeria japonica, Nellie Stevens Holly, or using deer repellent spray through winter.
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